ASTM F1774-20 PDF Download

The ASTM F1774-20 standard specifies the mechanical testing, performance, and design of carabiners used in climbing and mountaineering sports. The standard distinguishes between two types of carabiners: non-locking and locking carabiners.

The standard requires carabiners to pass six mechanical tests, including the gate function during the body weight test, the major axis gate closed 70% force test, the locking mechanism test, the major axis gate closed ultimate strength test, the major axis gate open ultimate strength test, and the minor axis gate closed ultimate strength test. These tests are destructive in nature, which means that carabiners that have been submitted to them cannot be used again except to evaluate the results of the testing.

The standard underlines that it does not indicate acceptance of any particular technique of employing carabiners and that the test load values supplied in the standard should not be regarded as the forces that carabiners will experience in actual field use. Furthermore, the standard only applies to carabiners constructed of steel or aluminum alloys and excludes carabiners manufactured from other materials.